As I stare at the rain for the fourth consecutive day, I contemplate the highlights of my trip/escape/walkabout.
I am taking care of the cats, walking to the Pension, meeting new friends if I want to, eating, making dinner, relaxing. I drank too much wine a couple of days ago. This was the first time I woke in the morning and didn’t feel like doing anything. Not again. Yeah, right. I did enjoy playing Jenga and charades with two Autralians, one German, two Romanians and a Swiss.
I was a little worried that I was still drunk when I looked outside and saw two cows instead of one.
Luckily, there were two.
The other one is named 1891. I don’t like this one as much as 380. 380 is much nicer, and moos more contentedly. 380 doesn’t seem to mind me. 1891 stares a bit too long at me and the cats.
So back to the contemplation.
I made a little list of the things I wanted to do when I came to Costsa Rica.
Seeing monkeys, sloths, iguanas, coatis and other strange animals (in the wild) – Check!
Seeing toucans, parrots, other cool birds and hummingbirds (in the wild) – Check!
Swimming in two oceans – Check!
Surfboarding – Chickened out!
Ziplining across the canopy and going on a Tarzan swing – Check! (the Tarzan swing was a surprise)
Meeting tons of new people – Check!
Thinking about life and changing or something nebulous like that – Check!
Learning and speaking Spanish - Not So Much...
Walking and seeing waterfalls and hiking, everywhere – Check, Check, Check! (extra checks for amount of hiking)
Eating Tico food – everyday! In six weeks, I have only had one hamburger. I have eaten more fruit than I expected, lots of fish (because I know how to order fish!) and less salad. Yay!
But there was one thing that I did not expect.
You know when you are out somewhere and you come across a piece of nature that makes you just go wow?
This is what happened when I went to the magic tree. I have stayed here in Santa Elena because of this tree.
All I know is that I take people to the magic tree, and they believe. I think I have been with at least 20 people at the magic tree and it never gets old.
This tree is a strangler fig. It’s a ficus. But not the wee ficus that you have as a house plant.
Here’s a YouTube video on the type of tree/vine if you are visual and want to learn more - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCUtpmwacoE
So this tree is in a forest above the small town of Santa Elena. To get there, you have to walk up the side of the hill, along dirt roads, for a kilometer or so, probably at about a 35 degree incline. Since we’re at 1600 meters here, there’s less oxygen. It’s a bit of a workout, and worth every step (and it’s all downhill on the way back!).
There’s a trail in the forest, and you walk around until you find the tree. There’s more than one, and it’s a wonderful calm forest with all sorts of cool plants. You hear birds, don’t see much because of the high canopy. This is old growth forest, and the plants fight for sunlight. This is the amazing part.
The following text is not scientific. If you want that, go here. http://www.blueplanetbiomes.org/strangler_figs.htm
A very large tree grows up into the canopy. Probably takes it 75 years. Then seeds that are spread from animals that poop in the tree then germinate, and thin tendrils creep down towards the ground. When they reach the ground, they feed on the nutrients and grow and wrap around the host tree. After years of this, the fig tree is able to find more sunshine in the canopy. This cuts off the sun for the big tree, and as more vines wind around the host tree, it dies, since it can’t get any sun. Then it rots over the years, and the fig tree is all that’s left. It forms a hollow ladder of vines that you can see inside.
So we go to the tree, and you can go to the base and look up into the tree. And amazingly, you can climb inside the tree! You use the natural lattice of the vines and climb up and up, probably at least 25 meters.
But this is why it’s magic.
Every place that you need to find a handhold when you climb, there is a natural vine that fits your hand. When you need a foothold, there is one perfect for your foot. It’s like the tree grew a certain way and it wanted humans to climb her/him/it.
I like having phobias. So I am afraid of heights (acrophobia) and of close dark tight spots (claustrophobia). Since I like most bugs and spiders and things, the ones who were hanging out with me in the tree didn’t bug me. Much.
But I went up this tree, and as it narrows, you can still climb your way past the tight spots to a place where there is a hole, that opens up into the canopy. It forms a natural seat, and you can crank your head around and look at the tops of the trees and the ocean in the distance. Sunset up there is spectacular. Or, since I’m up to a challenge, you can climb out of the hole and stand against the trunk next to it, and hang onto more vines. It’s so much fun.
Your adrenaline races, your mind clears and you can feel the tree holding you in its embrace, sheltering you from the world, willing you to relax and breathe deep and think clearly.
To those who sat with me up there and talked about life, I thank you. To those who supported us while we were are the top, thank you.
I felt free and energized and happy.
The tree allowed me to dream anew, and things became clearer. The magic of the tree just flows into you, and you are thankful.
When I leave Costa Rica, I think the best thing I have seen and done is climb this tree. It’s like being six years old and 90 all at the same time. The Hindus believe the stranger fig is a sacred tree. I agree with them. I have never thanked a tree before, but I need to say thank you to this one. So thank you tree, you have made me very happy to have met you.
| In the rain looking up |
| In the sun, looking up |
| Earth Star |
Thank you for this Steve - great post! Now I really do have to go to Costa Rica, just to check out this magical tree!
ReplyDeleteNice post. As I have 2 phobias - heights and spiders - I don't think I would have been able to climb inside the tree. But ur post was really visual (OK, and the photos helped) and I could imagine everything. In Manuel Antonio it has been pouring for hours. What I checked today - snorkelling. Outside was raining but the water was hot. I didn't see too many fish but the ones I did were really cute and blue. Great experience. We met a couple of mexicans and we go out with them tonight (not so much wine though ). I spent this morning reading some of ur old posts and I decided to restart blogging. Have fun !
ReplyDeleteThanks to both of you. Alex, please blog. And I have quit drinking forever.
ReplyDeleteI will
ReplyDeleteSteve,
ReplyDeleteThis is mind-blowing. Thank you for sharing the magic of this tree. I have always loved climbing trees and hanging out in the branches (well, as a kid of course) - but this... wow - makes me wanna be a professional tree-climber-and-hanger-outer-in-the-branches...-er.
Can you pick any figs?
Glen
Ahem... I beg your pardon... that's 'Landon'.
ReplyDeleteMy bad.
Love this post, such a cool tree!! I want to visit this tree some day too! I sound like I'm 3 years old, I want to go too!! I'll say hello from you. I bet this tree remembers stuff. :)
ReplyDeleteI'm grateful to have met you and grateful that you introduced Marinka, Tia and I to this lovely tree. I've known some trees in my time, but this one...Oh. Glad you liked the stars.
ReplyDelete